五月中旬我要搭乘大阪到九州的郵輪旅行，所以來九州大分縣別府市進行「地獄巡禮」。別府作為著名溫泉地，所謂的「地獄」，聽起來名稱有點嚇人，其實是大分縣別府的自然湧泉景觀，
在漫長的歷史中，大大小小，沒落或消失的地獄不計其數，目前共有七個地獄加入了「別府地獄組合」，其中海地獄、白池地獄、血の池地獄三個被指定為「日本國家名勝」。
我上次來應該是 1991 年前後，那時還是國中生吧，記得是和家人一起參加團體旅行前來，時間過得好快，一下子就過了三十多年了。不過我對這種東西的記憶力就是優於常人，而且十分在乎這種事，所以就趁著這次的行程，來重溫舊夢回想當時的青春吧
海地獄（Umi Jigoku）是其中最著名也最值得來的地獄，誕生於約 1200年前的鶴見山爆發，因為大量的硫酸鐵，再加上太陽光的吸收與散射而呈現清澈的鈷藍色，泉水溫度約攝氏 98 度。利用海地獄的地熱泉水種植的大型睡蓮植物，甚至可以讓小朋友乘坐在葉子上面，
在 2025 年，每一個地獄的入場費都是 500 日圓，也有販售七個地獄的一日通票（PASS）為 2000 元，表面上看起來選擇通票比較划算，只要去四個以上就划算，但是事實上，七個地獄組合中真正值得去看的可能就只有三到四個，
所以你應該自己考慮時間，有時候買了通票，為了讓自己感覺賺到了，反而使得自己的時間和行程被制約，總之根據我多年的經驗，日本的這種一日票的價格都算得非常精準，不太可能賺到多少或損失多少。白池地獄也是三個被指定為國家名勝的地獄之一，以呈現乳白色的溫泉而被命名，整體上並不大，也沒有太多的遊客。
最後造訪的是血池地獄，這也是日本最古老的地獄（溫泉）之一，出現在 1300 年前的《豐後國風土紀》，顧名思義，血池地獄呈現血紅色的泉水而聞名，與海地獄一紅一籃成為別府地獄中兩個最值得參觀的景點。
血池地獄因為高溫高壓下的環境產生飽含酸化鐵的泥土而使得整體呈現赤紅色，深度約 30 公尺，溫度約攝氏 78 度，這種赤色的熱泥被認為對於皮膚過敏、蚊蟲咬傷等等有特殊療效，所以現場也有販售以血池地獄泥土製作的軟膏，
這次相隔三十年再度來到別府，真的有一種時間過得很快的感覺，例如當年入住杉乃井飯店（杉乃井ホテル ），迄今仍在別府代表性的旅館，很多事情隨著時間一去不復返，但也有很多事情始終一。
例如別府的溫泉熱煙裊裊。
In May, I’m taking a cruise from Osaka to Kyushu, so I’m here in Beppu City for the “Jigoku Meguri,” or “Hell Tour.”
Beppu is a famous hot spring town, and right outside the station, there’s even a hot spring where you can soak your hands. The so-called “Hells” might sound a bit scary, but they’re actually natural hot spring landscapes in Beppu, Oita.
Throughout its long history, countless hells, big and small, have declined or disappeared.
Currently, there are seven hells that are part of the “Beppu Jigoku Kumiai,” or Beppu Hells Association. Among them, Umi Jigoku, Shiraike Jigoku, and Chinoike Jigoku are designated as “Japan’s National Scenic Spots.”
I think the last time I came here was around 1991. I was a junior high school student back then. I remember coming with my family on a group tour. Time flies; it’s already been over 30 years. But my memory for this kind of thing is better than average, and I really care about these details. So, I’m taking this trip as a chance to relive those old memories and think back to my youth.
Umi Jigoku, or Sea Hell, is the most famous and most worthwhile hell to visit. It was created by the eruption of Mount Tsurumi about 1200 years ago.
Due to a large amount of ferric sulfate, plus the absorption and scattering of sunlight, it has a clear cobalt blue color. The spring water is about 98 degrees Celsius.
They use the geothermal water from Umi Jigoku to grow giant water lilies, and kids can even sit on their leaves.
In 2025, the entrance fee for each hell is 500 yen. There’s also a one-day pass for all seven hells for 2000 yen.
On the surface, the pass seems like a good deal – it pays off if you visit four or more. But in reality, out of the seven hells, maybe only three or four are really worth seeing. So, you should consider your time. Sometimes, if you buy the pass, you might feel pressured to visit more to get your money’s worth, which can restrict your time and schedule.
Anyway, based on my years of experience, these kinds of Japanese day passes are usually priced very accurately. You’re unlikely to save a lot or lose a lot.
Shiraike Jigoku, or White Pond Hell, is also one of the three nationally designated scenic spots. It’s named for its milky white hot spring. It’s not very big, and there aren’t too many tourists. The last one I visited was Chinoike Jigoku, or Blood Pond Hell. This is one of Japan’s oldest hells (hot springs), appearing in the “Bungo no Kuni Fudoki” over 1300 years ago. As its name suggests, Blood Pond Hell is famous for its blood-red water.
Together with Umi Jigoku’s blue, they make a red and blue pair – two of the most worthwhile sights in Beppu’s hells.
The red color of Blood Pond Hell comes from iron oxide-rich mud created under high temperature and pressure. It’s about 30 meters deep, and the temperature is around 78 degrees Celsius.
This red, hot mud is believed to have special healing effects for skin allergies, insect bites, and so on. So, they also sell ointments made from Blood Pond Hell mud on site.
They also have these kinds of self-deprecating souvenirs, like “I came to Hell” or “I’m in Hell every day.”
Coming back to Beppu after 30 years, I really feel how quickly time has passed. For example, I stayed at the Suginoi Hotel back then, and it’s still a representative hotel in Beppu today.
Many things change with time and never come back, but many things also stay the same.
Like the rising steam from Beppu’s hot springs.
